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I'm about to just give up on having a functional MK3

I bought an mk3 at the end of July, built it over the course of a couple of nights. I never thought I would continue to have these problems printing after the initial setup and maybe a small fraction of time configuring everything.
tl;dr - Almost 2 months of ownership and I can't get successful prints.
I have done nearly everything I can think of, what Prusa tech support has told me to do (I've been in constant contact with them), Youtube videos and even this subreddit. But the machine will not either layer a perfect first layer or there are issues with the subsequent layers causing the printer to fail. I've gone through 3 spools of filament with just test cubes, failed benchys, first line tests. The fun is no longer there for this product.
Tech support literally tells me to do the same thing over and over again. I report back it doesn't work and/or the answer is 'more'. Or something to that effect. I'm not trying to discredit them but a chat support for one guy helping 20 other people at the same time (that was last night's queue) might be cost effective but really makes it harder to test and resolve. I started with chat support around 9pm central time last night and at 2am central time, nothing was improved.
I've asked several times on various occasions to chat support (after hours of getting no where troubleshooting) if it's possible to 1) get a refund, 2) get an assembled version and return my kit version and the question is either ignored or I'm just told 'no because it will be fixed'. After almost 2 months of continuous troubleshooting, I'm feeling like this isn't going to happen. How it feels and looks right now is that I've spent $800 on a device that is not working as advertised and no one can seem to get it working. There also doesn't seem to be a US repair center but for not evening having the product two whole months, I don't feel I need to be exploring this option.
After re-calibrating, it always comes back with axes are perpendicular.
Things I've tried:
  • Adjusting the Z level (higher and lower)
  • Adjusting the bed level correction (higher and lower)
  • Reset and recalibrated XYZ axis
  • Using the other side of the steel sheet
  • Cleaning the sheet with dish soap
  • Cleaning the sheet with acetone
  • Glue stick/ISO mixture for prints
  • Purchased a dry box (Polybox) for low humidity
  • Disassembled and reassembled the heat bed three times now
  • Tried different filament brands and types
  • Built an enclosure (friend had to print the parts for me)
  • Used higher and lower temperature for PLA prints
  • Installed a hardened nozzle (e3d v6) yes, I reran calibration
  • Cold pulls to clean out the nozzle
  • Gone through the assembly book twice completely now and referenced other sections multiple times. Everything has been checked for correct installation repeatedly.
  • Used the rulelight test to ensure no light is going through on the bed.
  • PINDA is secured with the distance of the flat part of a zip tie inbetween it and the bed.
Filaments I've tried:
  • Prusa PLA (grey that came with the device)
  • Amz3d PLA (teal, black)
  • Amz3d ABS (black)
  • StainSmart (I think that's the company) TPU (black)
  • eSUN PLA (green)
I literally get the same of similar results everytime. All filament is stored in a weather sealed box with 10% humidity.
Print results:
I'm literally at a loss and the experience hasn't been a good one. I'm also going to post this on Prusa forums, who knows maybe Jo himself can give some insight or help resolve the issue. But nearly 2 months of troubleshooting 3-4 nights a week and not getting the proper results to actual use the device makes me think there is a defect with the printer or some component.
9/19/2018 edit
9/20/2018 edit
Took the advise, read the online documentation on Bed Level Adjustments. I do have OctoPi installed but the install fails, states to reference the log file which never downloads. I know I could puTTY into the device and cat the record but I figured it might be best to try the tools built into the printer first.
For reference, this is the initial print - https://i.imgur.com/uaal6Pa.jpg
As you can see, the bottom right corner has adhesion problems, looks like the nozzle drags it also. Most of the squares are not full squares. There are very visible gaps in the print.
Through trial and error, I've been able to get the prints to look like this - https://i.imgur.com/ipr1iZX.jpg Much better but not nearly there. As punkgeek pointed out, almost there.
For reference, here are the Bed Level Adjustments:
  • Left Side -28um
  • Right Side -23um
  • Front Side -27um
  • Rear Side -34um
Although the picture doesn't really show it, when I removed the squares, the top center square has some small gaps and so does the bottom left square. The other 7 squares are perfect. When I originally started tweaking these settings last night, only 2 were perfect.
I'm hoping tonight to be able to finally get it completely fixed with all 9 squares perfect. I only stopped because I was tired and had work in the morning.
9/21/2018 edit
More tweaking to the bed level adjustment and with the following adjustments:
  • Left Side -30um
  • Right Side -22um
  • Front Side -35um
  • Rear Side -35um
  • Z Line Adjustment -0.715mm
I think I got it about as good as it's going to get! Here - https://i.imgur.com/vwd6J32.jpg
Everything seems to be perfect except for the bottom left corner. It's not perfect but it's close and a lot better than what it has been - https://i.imgur.com/kQ7bCH8.jpg
I did do a 'real' print but shouldn't have been in PLA because it won't wrap around the bracket. All things considered (didn't do a large amount of cleanup) I think it came out great - https://i.imgur.com/dMt4JtO.jpg
for Mortimer452, dryja123, dougisfunny and boorec - the bed visualizer did install. Here is the visualization of the current mesh. https://i.imgur.com/dfX60AW.png. Except for one corner (which I'm assuming the the left front corner which is always giving me the biggest deficit whenever manually adjustment the bed leveling) I'm not sure what would be the next step, if anything. I've already placed a spacer from the spare bag in between the bed and the bolt.
Probably the only thing left to do is the extruder calibration and get the belt tension from 314 into the 270 range.
9/22/2018 edit
AnotherStupidName mentioned that the extruder should be calibrated as well. Never knew about this but the link he provided https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/ was a great starting point.
Original m503:
Recv: echo: M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E280.00
Original Run:
G1 E100 F90
Came back with 101.25 extruder when 100 was requested.
So with mathing:
280.00 (original e value) x 100 = 28000
28000 / 101.25 = 276.5432
Applying new settings:
M92 E276.54 M500
Cleared and reran the test run:
G92 E0 G1 E100 F90
Came back with 100 extruded when 100 was requested!
Next part running the 0.45 test cube:
Cube measured at 0.41
So mathing again:
0.45 (desired) / 0.41 (actual) = 1.09 new extruder multiplier.
This made the wall 0.45! https://i.imgur.com/mW9r0JQ.jpg
One weird thing I noticed on both prints, and I have seen this before but haven't had time with all the other issues is this vertical indented line in the prints. You can see it more on the right cube than on the left cube (because of the flash). https://i.imgur.com/gph2UGj.jpg
submitted by abyssea to prusa3d

The Super Cobra or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the SEAD

There's been a lot of discussion recently- not all of it shitposts- about the Super Cobra changes and why it's actually a nerf. While I agree that on paper, the new SEAD cobra isn't as useful as the previous AAM version, when you think about its position in either a USA national or NORAD deck, it may prove to be a buff.
To start, if you can consistently use half of the armament on the Super Cobra, it's worth the money- SEAD missiles and TOW 2 are fairly expensive platforms. One lucky shot on a superheavy, and it's already earned its worth. (though for full disclosure this isn't super likely as long range accurate IRAA has become commonplace). But with the SEAD missiles, if it takes out one or two radar AA pieces, it also earns its points back.
But this isn't the real reason I think the changes make the SEADCobra viable. The best thing about the new Super Cobra is the availability of a SEAD platform outside of the Airtab. In both US national decks and NORAD decks, the Airtab is tight on space. A US general deck may only take 5 total aircraft due to both lack of activation points and unit availability: One elite F-15C, One Raven, One F-15D, and 2 F-18c for example. But with the new SEADcobra, you can use the often less populated Helo tab to fill the SEAD role, leaving either more points for other aircraft or other cards in general.
Going more specific into the advantage. As we all know, the more cards you take in a tab, the more activation points it costs, increasing from 1 through 5 in a general deck. This means that in order to take 4 cards of aircraft, it would cost you 10 points. Throw in a card of DAPs in the helo tab (the only helicopter worth taking in either a USA or NORAD deck) and it brings you to 11 total points. But if you remove a card of plane SEAD (using the airtab example above) and add a SEADCobra to the helo tab, you only spend 9 points for roughly the same operational coverage. This nets you 2 extra points to spend on other flex cards. And if you're like me and normally take all five cards in your Airtab, taking a card of SEADCobra instead of traditional SEAD saves you 3 activation points- again assuming you only take a card of DAPs in your Helotab.
And this doesn't mention how the SEADCobra might prove to be more useful in the SEAD role than traditional aircraft. For the same activation price of a fifth card of aircraft, you can take 2 cards of SEADCobras. That means instead of 1 Raven or 2 Prowlers or Wild Weasels, you can get up to 6 SEADCobras. No only is this a significant increase in the amount of SEAD coverage available to you at any one time, it also gives you protection from lucky crits on your aircraft in the form of availability and flexibility as it also carries ATGMs. I compare it to the F-5 PUFF, widely considered to be one of the most efficient SEAD platforms. They both provide relatively cheap SEAD, multiple units, and the capability to fill multiple roles if need be.
Some Disclaimers SEAD, as a role, may be fading into obscurity as more and more nations are getting Super IRAA or unSEADable AA. Additionally, the above math only works when you only take disproportionately more planes to helicopters. Finally, I haven't tested this thoroughly myself. It might prove that 16 AP or 55% accuracy might not be useful enough in the SEAD role.
TL;DR Take a card of SEADCobra instead of a card of a traditional SEAD, get more activation points to use and more flexibility as a bonus.
submitted by SamwiseG14 to wargame

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